Today we have a driver! I would recommend you book drivers via the place you are staying, and agree on the itinerary beforehand.
After a delicious and rich breakfast, we set out to Tampaksiring, which is a few miles north of Ubud.
First stop in Tampaksiring, the famous Gunung Kawi, a temple dating back to the 11th century, set around a river (tickets are 15.000Rp). We catch a glimpse of rice fields all around. Word has it that the candis represent the members of a royal family. After walking through what seems countless stalls we reach the temple entrance, where we spray holy water over our heads, and wear the necessary sarongs. A little note here on temple visiting in Bali : tourists are made to walk throughout the flea markets on entrance and exit of the temples, although I think there are much quicker routes. A heaven for those who enjoy bargaining (see The Man). Thanks to his abilities, we managed to grab some stuff at about 30% of the asking price. I am not that good, but I practiced, thanks to the encouragement of the locals (Typical dialogue goes: Me: How much is this please? Merchant : $x, madame, you buyyyy Me : Thanks (taking a closer look at the artifact/sarong/coconut) Merchant : Now you bargain, madame, come on (!)).
We continue to find the sources of the river, at Tirta Empul (entrance 15.000Rp).
The water here is considered holy, and I can feel why. Crystal clear, fresh cool water springs where numerous worshipers pray and take blessings. A bit further up, inside the main temple, special ceremonies and offerings take place. We are not allowed to bathe in the springs, but we can wash our face. It is so refreshing under the Balinese heat!
The Man takes a 'shower' in the public baths outside the temple next to an old man and many children. Time to head for the mountains!
The way up to Danau (lake) Bratan is a nice trip, but the higher we go, the stronger the rain. A cloud seems to be following us above. We are lucky, though and right after passing Candikuning, the rain stops, and we discern the lake through the mist. By the lake there is one of Bali's most important temples (9 in total).
Hey, this is me in the middle:
We have the worst lunch ever in a standardized, overpriced buffet place full of flies just above the lakes.
Back in the car, we are heading to the rice fields in Jatiluwih (entrance for tourists 10.000Rp, you can either walk around or drive through). Magnificent is not enough to describe the views, and neither are the pictures. Green as far as the eye can see, neatly organized throughout the valley, farmers quietly going on with their business.
Coming out of the area, the road is being reconstructed. I admire the driver, and we hear a man shouting frantically. All is well, though, he is just scaring the birds eating his crops away. We make frequent stops, and even see a buffalo resting among the bamboo trees.
Through curvy scenic roads, we reach Pura Lahur Batukaru. Locals far outnumber the few tourists, there are no shops. The setting is most spiritual. It makes me feel as if I am not supposed to be talking let alone taking pictures. Most of the places are out of reach, as there are ceremonies held throughout the temple, but the temple consists of many different parts, so we end up spending a lot of time here. We feel very calm and the mistiness adds up to the place's ambiance. The highlight is a temple in the middle of a pond, where only the priest is allowed to go, through small steps built within the pond, making it seem as if he is walking on water!
Just when we think the trip is finished, the driver suggests we visit some warm springs nearby.
That's it for today, we arrive at the hotel hungry, and enjoy local food -specifically re-engineered for westerners- precisely what I need ;)
Through curvy scenic roads, we reach Pura Lahur Batukaru. Locals far outnumber the few tourists, there are no shops. The setting is most spiritual. It makes me feel as if I am not supposed to be talking let alone taking pictures. Most of the places are out of reach, as there are ceremonies held throughout the temple, but the temple consists of many different parts, so we end up spending a lot of time here. We feel very calm and the mistiness adds up to the place's ambiance. The highlight is a temple in the middle of a pond, where only the priest is allowed to go, through small steps built within the pond, making it seem as if he is walking on water!
Just when we think the trip is finished, the driver suggests we visit some warm springs nearby.
That's it for today, we arrive at the hotel hungry, and enjoy local food -specifically re-engineered for westerners- precisely what I need ;)
next dish served here
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